After the collapse of the Minoan palace culture, Chania grew into one of the island’s most important cities- well enough know for its citizens to warrant a mention in Homer’s Odyssey- and remained so through the classical Greek era. When Rome came in search of conquest the city mounted a stiff resistance prior to its eventual capitulation in 69 BC, after which it flourished once more. In early Christian times, Kydonia was the seat of bishop, and under the protection of Byzantium the city flourished along with the island.

As the Byzantine Empire became increasingly embattled, however, so its further outposts, Kydonia and Crete included, suffered neglect. When the Venetians finally won it back they acted quickly to strengthen the defences, turning the city, renamed La Canea, into a formidable bulwark in the west. In 1645, after a two-month siege with terrible losses, Chania fell to Turks. It was the first major Cretan stronghold to succumb, becoming the Turkish island capital and seat of the pasha. For the rest, it is a history of struggle: for independence during the nineteenth century, then in resistance against the Germans in World War II.

During World War II, Chania suffered severe bombardment, this destruction eventually compounded by a fire, which wiped out almost everything apart from the area around the harbour. In the post-war period, the town was rebuilt and sprawling, traffic-congested suburbs now encircle the ancient core. The arrival of tourism has inspired the will- if not the resources- to save and restore much of the city’s crumbling architectural heritage, and Chania is currently enjoying a period of peace and prosperity unrivalled in its modern history